🐾 4 days in Berry with my dog: Musher and Sophie's roadbook
After spending 4 days in Berry with my dog, I have lots to tell you! Walks, activities and wonderful encounters with heritage and animal lovers, here is my roadbook of our stay in Berry with Musher.
Table of contents
It was a first for us: first time in Berry.
Our mission: to travel the region to discover the must-see dog-friendly tourist sites in Berry and to make you want to discover this beautiful destination with your dog 🐶 And… I think I now have some good arguments!
Spoiler: Berry is a very natural destination 🌳, sometimes a little humid 🌧️, calm, far from the crowds, and incredibly welcoming for dogs.
This stay was also an opportunity to meet those who work to make holidays with a dog simpler and more beautiful in Berry.
The Berry Province team is 100% committed: QUALIDOG-certified accommodation, dog-friendly activities, travel itineraries, inspirational articles, tailored and precise communication... everything is designed to make our furry friends welcome. 💛 Thanks to Élodie and Nathalie, project managers at Berry Province, who have been passionate about the canitourism project for over 2 years.
Here I'm sharing our roadbook in detail: enough to give you some inspiration for your next stay in Berry with your dog! ALL the addresses mentioned below are, of course, accessible to dogs. Two hours from Paris, Berry is where the Indre and Cher departments meet. So I navigated between Bourges, Vierzon, Châteauroux, Saint-Amand-Montrond and Argenton-sur-Creuse.
Day 1: Wild Brenne
Arriving from the west of Hérault, I swapped my endless vineyards for a completely different setting: tall trees, small roads winding through lush greenery, ponds everywhere, characterful houses, large farms, peaceful cows, bales of straw and even fields of sunflowers greeting the sun.
And especially… no crowd. Here, we take our time. Really. And I can tell you that in the middle of July, I enjoyed taking advantage of this TRANQUIL, cute setting!
First stage : the Brenne Ecomuseum. Perfect for understanding how this landscape was formed, the role of fish farming and the history of this unique territory. A perfect introduction to this stay.
On the road, I stopped several times to admire the ponds. We even made a detour to the Red Sea pond and his famous “Instagrammable” photo treeBetween two shots, Musher and I saw… dozens of crayfish crossing the road.
At first I thought it was a hallucination, but no, apparently it's normal here 🦞😅. I stopped to see it with my own eyes, and I made some videos for my team back at the office 😅
At the end of the day, after a few minutes of searching for my route (it must be said that the network is not Brenne's strong point... guaranteed disconnection 📵), I reached the Hamlet of La Closerie.
Martine, the owner, welcomed me with a huge smile, as did her dog Impala. Gîte high-end, SPA, impeccable services, warm atmosphere… the perfect combo to end this first day. On site, Elodie from Berry Province was also waiting for me with Shaka, her German Shorthaired Pointer, for an evening between girls and dogs! We chatted until 1 a.m.: about dogs, W'ouf racing, female entrepreneurship, the riches of Berry…
The day’s stages in detail:
First step to theBrenne ecomuseum to understand this unique territory, its landscapes and its wildlife. Musher was able to accompany me without any problem.
A lovely interlude between nature and heritage, with a clear view that is worth the detour.
I didn't have time to do everything the course, but there is a 6,5 km loop, very accessible for families.
La Ciron beach : Musher's favorite ❤️ Fresh water, view of the Château de Romefort, and a big canine smile on the way out. When it comes to swimming, Musher is a winner!
The spot is very natural. Ideal for dipping a paw and making some pebble piles with the kids by the water.
NB: there are a few picnic tables on site.
La House of Brenne : a resource center with lots of information for planning walks and outings in the area.
THERed Sea Pond : a photogenic spot par excellence with its famous tree, and some unexpected encounters… like these crayfish crossing the road!
Important: Some ponds in Brenne are accessible with your dog, but other areas are classified as National Nature Reserves, such as the Chérine pond. These areas are strictly prohibited to dogs, even on leashes. Your dog will therefore not be able to follow you to the Purais Pond Observatory either.
Upon arrival, I immediately understood why this accommodation is QUALIDOG certified. Hamlet of Closerie, dogs are definitely expected and welcome.
Martine, the owner, welcomed us with a huge smile, and Musher was treated like a guest. Impala also made him feel welcome by offering him some great chases on the property's vast grounds.
The cottage is high-end, tastefully decorated, bright, and fully equipped. It features a modern kitchen, a large living room where you'll quickly feel at home, and a terrace overlooking a lush green setting.
In terms of comfort, there's nothing to complain about: impeccable bedding, spacious bathroom, everything has been designed to make your stay enjoyable. And there's even a rooftop spa!
And the other cottages in the hamlet are of the same high standard. As a bonus, there are hiking trails directly accessible from the cottages and a private pond for swimming with your dog and/or some great fishing.
And for the evening... Martine and Élodie offered me a moment out of time. We remade the world late into the night, between girls and between dogs 🐾, with that rare mix of authenticity and conviviality that makes a stay unforgettable.
Day 2: Crozant and the Valley of Painters
That morning, I left the calm of Brenne to join the Valley of Painters.
Still these small roads that wind through the countryside, but here the scenery changes: steep cliffs, deep forests, plunging views over the Creuse...
First discovery: the Crozant tourist trainI admit, it's not usually my favorite activity... but here, it's the opportunity to watch the Valley of Painters pass by effortlessly, while listening to local anecdotes.
The scenery is superb, and next time I think I'll try it. hiking in the forest which winds through the same place: there are magnificent shaded trails, perfect for nature lovers (and hiking dogs).
Then head to the Riva Fougères restaurant, on the shores of Lake Éguzon. A quick stop, but we had a great time: generous plate, fresh produce, very friendly team, peaceful view of the lake... and above all, Musher was able to accompany me without any problem.
To digest, we embark on a guided cruise on the Creuse. Between two fascinating comments on the history of the places, I spotted incredible viewpoints on the ruins of the Crozant Fortress to take some nice pictures with Musher.
And then… the highlight of the day: canoe trip with Musher 🛶 !
Yes, you read that right: you can canoe with your dog here too. The water is calm, the valley is beautiful, and it's a real joy to glide along the water, surrounded by cliffs and watched by birds of prey.
Small confession: there is also a hike that leads to a splendid himalayan gateway…but Musher and I are afraid of heights 😅. This will be for the most daring among you!
The sensation of the day? Nature + sport = the winning combo. Between quiet moments and small doses of adrenaline, it was just perfect.
At the end of the day, direction Le Moulin de Meslon, QUALIDOG guest house.
A charming QUALIDOG accommodation nestled in the heart of a green setting. A warm welcome, a pond and lapping water as a backdrop, and... breakfast croissants so enormous they deserve an Instagram post of their own 🥐🤩.
The stages of the day:
Guided tour, comfortably seated in the little Crozant train, through the Valley of Painters, ideal for a quick overview of the area especially if you have children who don't like to walk too much... And of course, dogs are allowed on board. Musher wasn't very comfortable but she ended up landing and sleeping.
Terrace on the edge of Lake Éguzon, simple and tasty dishes, local products.
📌 Dog friendly, fast service, perfect view for a break.
During this cruise on the boat “La Damoiselle des Fileuses”, I discovered the ruins of the Crozant Fortress and the Éguzon dam lake from the water. Musher and his fear of heights... Madame didn't want to climb over the dock to jump into the boat, I had to carry her! The commentary is very interesting: we discover lots of things.
An accessible, calm, and beautiful experience in the heart of the Valley. Musher loved it!
THELake Hotel in Crozant Rents canoes, kayaks, and even paddleboards to explore the river with family or friends, AND your dog. No rapids, just a family ride along the water!
Le Meslon Mill is ideally located for exploring the Château d'Ainay-le-Vieil. Warm welcome and gargantuan breakfast. I wasn't able to enjoy the table d'hôtes in the evening, but if it was anything like breakfast, it must have been fantastic.
Please note: cats and ducks on site
Day 3: Heritage and unusual activities
No question of hanging around for this last day: there are still plenty of things to see!
We start with a short walk towards the Tranchasse Canal Bridge. Honestly, I wasn't expecting much... Nathalie from Berry Province had just told me: "Go there, you'll see." Well, what a nice surprise!
A green setting, a pretty footbridge, and the Cher flowing peacefully below. Musher put his paws in the water and… big canine crush ❤️. We could have stayed there for hours just enjoying the peace and quiet.
But the Ainay-le-Vieil Castle, an essential stop on the Jacques Coeur route, was waiting for us! We couldn't stay there long (tight schedule required), but even on a quick visit, it was great! The place breathes history, the gardens are well-kept and we were treated to a little ray of sunshine just at the right time ☀️. In short, the perfect place for lovers of beautiful stones. It's still the "little Carcassonne" of Berry :p
Then a quick break at the Virlay nautical base.
I must admit that this place was not a favorite during my stay, simply because the beaches are forbidden to dogs 😅 (and that's my judgment), but there is still enough to take a quiet walk around the lake and dip your paws, it's a pleasant place for families.
In the afternoon, head to a completely unusual place: Jean Linard's Cathedral.
I was blown away. The history of the place, the energy that emanates from it, and especially the meeting with Charlotte, the new owner. She is young, passionate, and has a real project to bring this extraordinary place to life. For art lovers, this place is a must-see.
As a bonus, Charlotte is a pastry chef by trade... and she let me taste her desserts 🍰. So I can tell you that after that, I was definitely won over. The tasting took place under a beautiful summer storm ⛈️, which added a mysterious and magical side to the place, lost in the middle of the forest.
And to end on a high note: Bourges by night.
I had never set foot there, and… wow! Beautiful facades, a pleasant atmosphere, and above all the Nights Light : colorful projections on the monuments, which transform the city into a magical setting. We finished this discovery “by night”, and it was the icing on the cake of this Berry road trip.
The stages of the day:
Short nature walk at Tranchasse Canal Bridge, peaceful setting, and the possibility for your dog to cool off in the Cher.
From Ainay-le-Vieil you can come on foot by taking the greenway of the Canal du Berry which links Saint-Amand-Montrond to Montluçon.
Le Ainay-le-Vieil Castle : an sA superb medieval castle surrounded by flower gardens. Musher and I enjoyed exploring the gardens, but I think it must be even more beautiful in spring when all the flowers are out.
📌 Dogs allowed on leashes outside only.
Body of water with the possibility of walking around it. Quiet spot for dipping your feet.
I wasn't able to test it with Musher, but it is quite possible to rent an electric boat at the Virlay nautical base to walk on the lake with a small dog. Please note that dogs are not allowed on the designated beaches.
La Cathedral of Jean Linard is a unique artistic place in the middle of the forest. Dogs are naturally welcome there, there is no question for Charlotte and her partner not to welcome them! Take the opportunity to take a little gourmet break there: Charlotte's pastries are very good 🙂
Discovering the city by night. Bourges Nights of Light give it a magical atmosphere with light projections on the monuments. A pleasant urban walk to try with your dog for a successful summer evening.
To end this busy day, we put our bags down at the Terracamps – Bourges Campsite, a place surrounded by nature just a 15-minute walk from the historic city center and Lake Auron. Why did we love it? A simple, welcoming atmosphere, with no hassle to end the day. And the campsite allows you to reach the city center of Bourges on foot in just a few minutes. And here, everything is designed so that our dog is truly a guest in its own right: no extra charge, a free welcome kit, and a doggie bar at reception!
Day 4: cycling and the Berry Canal
I came to Berry to escape the heatwave in the south... and I can say that, for this last day, I was served 😅 The rain invited itself as if to say to me: “Come on, it’s over, get out of here, go home!” But that's not enough to dampen my good mood, it's not three drops that are going to scare a Breton, even an adopted one :p but let's admit it, it shortened the walk slightly.
We still started with an unmissable detour: the marshes of Bourges.
Imagine: flowing streams, wooden walkways, flowering vegetable gardens, and the smell of damp grass enveloping you. Musher loved watching the ducks up close… and we met lots of dogs on walks. I especially liked this side of it countryside in the city, very exotic.
Then, head towards the Berry Channel, this time by bike. A flat, green track, bordered by calm water and trees reflected like in a mirror… A real postcard setting, even in the rain.
So I rented an electric bike and a bike trailer for Musher from Berry Bike and we set off for a few kilometers of leisurely stroll. Ultimately, this capricious weather gave a special charm to the outing, as if Berry wanted to show me its 100% natural, raw and authentic version.
It was the perfect ending to the trip: a little exercise, lots of greenery, and the feeling of having truly disconnected... even in the rain. We were able to enjoy Berry without rushing, while savoring the last moments before hitting the road again.
The stages of the day:
Walk among the Bourges marshes and market gardens, a stone's throw from the town center.
📌 Free access, easy trails, dogs welcome on leash.
I rented a bike from Berry Vélo. Flat and safe route. Depending on the section of the route chosen, there are routes shared with cars.
The map of all my activities in Berry
📚 To extend the adventure in Berry with your dog
If my travel diary has made you want to put down your suitcases here with your four-legged friend, here is everything you need to prepare your own Berry getaway :
📍 To complete your preparation with advice from Berry Province:
➡️ Never without my dog – Berry Province
???? Stock up on good dog-friendly addresses
QUALIDOG accommodation, activities, restaurants… everything is here for a successful vacation with your dog.
➡️ Berry for a vacation with your dog
🗺️ Follow our turnkey itinerary
➡️ A week in Berry with family and a dog
???? Dive behind the scenes of my stay
See Musher in action, the landscapes, the encounters...
➡️ Episode 1 on Instagram
➡️ Episode 2 on Instagram
These 4 days spent in Berry with my dog proved one thing to me: here, Dogs are not just “accepted”, they are expected and welcome.
Every step of our itinerary, whether it was an activity, accommodation, or simply a place to go for a walk, had our four-legged friends in mind. And that... that changes everything.
Behind this experience, there is also real teamwork: Élodie et Nathalie, passionate and committed to developing canitourism in the region, guided me, advised me and sometimes even “challenged” me on unexpected spots. Their mission? To make Berry a reference for travelers with dogs. And… they are on the right track.
I shared these 4 days in Berry with Musher.
I don't often get the chance to be away for so long and have a real break just for the two of us... and I loved it.
On the eve of her 11th birthday, she proved to me that she is still in great shape and always ready to experience new adventures with me. She reminded me, once again, how much Going on vacation with your dog is a unique experience : we share, we discover, we laugh… and we create memories that will remain engraved.
Thanks to her, I've discovered some of Berry's finest gems. After all, she's the one behind EmmeneTonChien.com, and she's also the one who gives me the faith and conviction to move mountains to help Wouafers easily go on vacation with their dogs.
Musher is an outstanding ambassador... and this Berry getaway will remain in our memories as a beautiful proof that the adventure is still ahead of us.
So… when is your turn?
PS: I did ALL of this in just 4 days, but I recommend taking your time and spreading the program out over 1 week. Personally, I wasn't in vacation mode, but in reporter mode 😉